Charms to protect you from the "evil eye" for sale all over Istanbul |
For our return visit to this city, we are staying north
of the Golden Horn (one of the waterways that make up Istanbul) in what is
known as the “New District.” One of the
advantages of staying over here is the amazing views of the Horn and the Old
City across the water. Our hotel is
called Galata la Bella, and it is "bella" indeed.
The bed is super comfortable and the shower is probably the best we have
ever found in a European hotel; it had a 10-inch diameter overhead waterfall-style
showerhead and a powerful oversized handheld with adjustable spray formats. Everyone treats us so nicely here too,
although nothing can compare with our experience at the Sultan’s Royal Hotel. But, in general, we must note that the Turks
are masters when it comes to customer service.
Hospitality seems to be their mantra!!
Galata Tower view across the Golden Horn with Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque in the distance |
A short walk up a steep hill took us to the Galata
Tower. Built originally in 1348
(although rebuilt many times), this stone tower with a conical top is one of
Istanbul’s most distinctive landmarks.
We rode the elevator up to the top (about 170 ft.) for incredible views
in all directions. For the first time,
we could truly appreciate Istanbul’s exceptional strategic position,
practically surrounded by water with the Marmara Sea to the south, the Bosporus
on the east providing a connection between the Sea of Marmara and the Black
Sea, and the Golden Horn cutting a narrow swath through the middle of the city. It is easy to see why this remarkable piece
of land was so attractive to every invader who ever laid eyes on it.
The always busy Istiklal shopping street in Istanbul |
Red trolley on Istiklal Street in Istanbul |
You need to be aware of the silent red trolley that runs up and down the center of the street - be prepared to dodge it when it unexpectedly sneaks up behind you. But these issues aside, we had a great time soaking in the vibrant bustling atmosphere and doing some shopping of our own.
Cruisin' the Bosporus in Istanbul |
Former hunting lodge of the Sultans along the Bosporus in Istanbul |
A highlight of our time in Istanbul was the day we spent in the remote village of Gallipoli. You may recall that we first learned about the tragic WWI battle of Gallipoli when we happened to be in Sydney, Australia on ANZAC day (back in 2005), a day similar to our Veteran’s Day honoring those who served at Gallipoli as part of the ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) troops.
This
was a long day with a 6:30 a.m. pick-up at our hotel. The driver did not speak English, and it was
a bit disconcerting to be whisked away like that in the dark of the morning --
especially when our driver didn’t stop to pick up anyone else. Anne had booked this trip with a recommended
company called “Backpackers Travels”, and her understanding was that the driver
would take us to a central bus station where we would hop on a public bus. As the city of Istanbul receded into the
distance, it became clear that we were somehow getting a private 4-hour ride south to
Gallipoli. Anne had a fleeting thought
that we were being kidnapped and would be sold into white slavery, but then she
figured, “Who would want two old people like us?”
Lone Pine Memorial at Gallipoli |
Tombstone at Gallipoli |
We saw several small cemeteries with statues
and memorials and graves of so many young Aussies and Kiwis. The most poignant
statue was one of a Turkish soldier carrying a wounded ANZAC in his arms. This was not Turkish propaganda – the statue
was commissioned by an Australian Prime Minister to commemorate an actual
event. The whole Gallipoli Memorial,
which consists of 31 cemeteries, is beautifully maintained by the Turkish
government – you can actually feel the respect that the Turks have for their
former enemies. A large monument
displays the words Ataturk wrote to the mothers of the dead ANZACs: “you, the
mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your
sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives
on this land they have become our sons as well.”
Special Memories of Istanbul
Istanbul is truly a world class city and a new favorite on our list of top cities in the world. This is a city where it just feels good being here. To be honest, we were somewhat uncertain about visiting a Muslim country these days, especially in this part of the world; but we never felt the tiniest bit uneasy here. And the Turkish people could not have been friendlier. Ataturk is still strongly revered, and his belief in separation of church and state is obvious in this secular society where most women dress in western clothes (some with pretty scarves over their heads).
Statue of Turkish soldier carrying a wounded ANZAC |
Special Memories of Istanbul
Istanbul is truly a world class city and a new favorite on our list of top cities in the world. This is a city where it just feels good being here. To be honest, we were somewhat uncertain about visiting a Muslim country these days, especially in this part of the world; but we never felt the tiniest bit uneasy here. And the Turkish people could not have been friendlier. Ataturk is still strongly revered, and his belief in separation of church and state is obvious in this secular society where most women dress in western clothes (some with pretty scarves over their heads).
Young woman in scarf and trench coat |
We only saw one woman wearing a burka during our whole visit, but we did see lots of women wearing dark trench coats and head scarves – apparently this is an acceptable new look for any pious Muslim woman in Turkey. More than anything, the Turks seem to be happy people who are looking forward to a bright future – and why not with the second-fastest growing economy in the world (right behind China)?
Our best memories are of the people we met. The only aggravating ones were the touts
constantly trying to get us into their brother’s or cousin’s shops to buy a
carpet. Of course, their approach is a
charming one, asking where we are from, drawing us into an innocuous conversation to ultimately lure us
into their family’s shop. One day, Frank
had enough. When the umpteenth salesman
approached him asking, “Where are you from?”
Frank immediately answered in frustration, “I don’t care if your brother, your
sister, or even your grandmother has a carpet shop, I don’t want a
rug!” The guy was taken aback
momentarily, but answered, “But I have my own carpet shop!” All three of us cracked up! The guy was still laughing as he walked away,
saying, “Have a good day, my friend.”
Our buddies (left to right) Efes, Ersin, Frank, Anne and Emre |
Ersin has good reason to be worried about this military service – the concern is not Syria as you might think, but a bloody civil uprising in the east with the Kurds that has been going on for 10 years. But speaking of Ersin’s girlfriend, her parents only allow her to see him during daylight hours – he has to have her home by 7:00 p.m. and he can’t even visit in her home after that. We asked Ersin how he felt about this, and he said she was a good girl like his sisters (who had the same restrictions). Ersin said, “But once we are married, she will be mine!”
Frank drinking his favorite Turkish beer, Efes |
Young boys on their "circumcision day" |
Turkish Delight! |
Fresh pomegranates! |
The drinking water was always a problem in all of the cities and
countries we visited. I know we’ve
talked about this ad nauseum in other blogs, but we cannot stress the
importance of this problem enough when travelling to underdeveloped countries. You
absolutely need to buy water for drinking, brushing your teeth, and anything
else where water can be ingested. Even
ordering salads in restaurants can be verboten since the restaurateur probably
washed his veggies in tap water. Yes, it is a nuisance but, in our estimation,
the rewards of the cultural exchange make it worth the trouble. And, consider
the alternative. YOU WILL more than
likely get sick if you drink their tap water!!
Nothing can spoil a vacation quicker'n a bout of Montezuma's revenge. Fortunately, clean water is easy
and cheap to obtain in bottled format.
Also, we always buy a bottle of vodka and carry that with us too. It allows us to sterilize our drinking glasses, wash our toothbrushes, and clean any silverware we used without adding too much of the flavor of the liquor. Thank God (and the Ruskies) for vodka!!
We'll leave you with more of the good foods of Istanbul:
Also, we always buy a bottle of vodka and carry that with us too. It allows us to sterilize our drinking glasses, wash our toothbrushes, and clean any silverware we used without adding too much of the flavor of the liquor. Thank God (and the Ruskies) for vodka!!
We'll leave you with more of the good foods of Istanbul:
All kinds of baklava! |
Delicious snacks |
Other yummy Turkish goodies |